Durban

There comes a time in every vacation when we hit the beach. This time, Durban is the place. On the Indian Ocean, far enough from the Cape that the water is warm, but not so far north that crocodiles rule the shores. There are sharks, both friendly and hungry, so the best beaches are protected by a system of shark nets. So the beaches are more or less safe.

Durban is a City of contrasting fortunes. We are staying in a leafy northern suburb where the houses are tens of thousands of square feet and surrounded by high walls, electric fences, razor wire, and automatic gates. Guard dogs and security company signs promising "armed response units". There are notices not to flash your valuables about, yet people blasting about in Lamborghinis. The tourist guides tell tourists to "avoid" public transit. Clearly the gap between the haves and the have-nots here is an uncomfortable one. As we walked the couple of blocks to the local shops, we noted the distinct paucity of sidewalks.

We have been here for a couple of days, I have drunk a few Carling Black Labels, visited a bicycle shop / Indian restaurant, a good Thai restaurant, finally found some good coffee, dropped by a (horrible mockery of Art Deco) Casino, generally did the tourist schtick.

There was a Cricket Test between India and South Africa going on, and we thought about going, but they were only three days in, and we only have a month vacation. Apparently India has 243 over 7 with 9 and South Africa has 301 over 13 facing 23, or something like that... I heard them discuss numbers on the TV for 2 minutes, and I have no idea who was leading. There were pictures of one team celebrating, but both teams were all in white. I have no clue what in the hell is going on.

Instead, we went to the Kwa Muhle Museum, located in the building that formerly housed the Department of Native Affairs, and where the "Durban System" of racial segregation was first developed, a system that was the precursor of Apartheid.

We then dove into the wild and crowded old city centre to visit the Victoria Market, where you can buy everything from a watch to a sheep's head. There is a large South Asian population in Durban, and the market is full of spices, from Madras to peri-peri, to "KFC Spice" (the colonel' secret is out!).

We also visited Moses Mabhida Stadium, the big multi-use facility built for the World Cup. We did a tour that included an "Adventure Walk " up the spine-arch that supports the suspended fabric roof (as opposed to taking the tilting cable car thingamajiggy). They were a little crazy with the safety, but the view up top was great.

This stadium will hold up to 80,000 odd people, and will be the jewel in Durban's bid for the 2020 Olympics (you heard it here first!).

We are now off to places north, where there shall be animals.